Four Kits to Get Into VR Sim Racing on Any Budget
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virtual reality is a natural for the racing sim genre, bringing strong online visual immersion with detailed and realistic physics engine. But if you play with a controller (or worse, a keyboard!) you miss the depths of immersion these games can provide. This article presents an introduction to sim racing hardware, with kit recommendations for all budgets, including wheels, pedals and accessories, combined with sim rigs.P>
precision wheel Sim engineering GT3p>
Sim's nearly 30 year history of racing has produced a huge range of dedicated gear, starting with rudimentary wheels attached to bungees for self-centering, followed by the motor-driven force feedback revolution, hydraulic pedals and elaborate motion cockpits. Today's market spans a broad spectrum, from basic plastic peripherals to extreme, targeted commercial gear.
While virtually any driving simulator can be played with a gamepad, the experience transforms using dedicated input devices. And in the case of VR, the feeling of convincing while sitting in a race car cockpit means holding a gamepad might feel utterly inappropriate. Using a set of wheels and the control steering pedal, throttle and brakes, you feel physically connected to the virtual car in a way not possible with general purpose controllers.
SEE ALSOp>
Top 5 Sims VR Racing for Oculus Rift and HTC Vivep >
Table of Contentsp>
the basicsp>
VR headset>
A solid foundation
Kitp Recommendations>
Rookie:p>
$175 - $250 budgetp>
Passionate:p>
$500-$1,000 budget
Pro:p>
$1,500 - $3,000 budgetp>
Extreme:p>
$5,000 + budgetp>
Optional accessories >
Joysticksp>
direction Rimsp>
button boxesp>
The basicsp>
VR headset>
Oculus Riftp>
HTC Vivep>
the two great virtual reality headsets for PC lep>
HTC Vivep>
etp>
Oculus Riftp>
-Both have enough wide support for VR racing sims. Unless there is a specific VR racing game you intend to play (in which case dual control compatibility), either will be a good choice.
If you plan to use your VR headset only
for VR racing, the Rift will offer the best price point at $500 (compared to Vive's $800 price point) because the headset only
Riftp package>
does not include touch motion controllers, while the Vive is sold bundled with motion controllers. If you opt for the Rift and want to add touch controllers later, it is unp>
easy $100 Add surp>
. Both headsets need (included) external sensors to track their movements, but if you're going headset-only for VR racing, Rift's sensor setup is simpler out of the box.
If you want to use your VR headset for simp racing >
etp>
general VR game, a more important consideration is the amount of space you have to dedicate to your VR game space. Both the Vive and the Rift can be used for seated, standing, and "room scale" gameplay, although the Vive scales more easily to larger play spaces than the Rift.
If you opt for Vive and a running piece in the sessions lasted more than 30 minutes, take into account
Vive Deluxe add-on from Audiop>
for added comfort (and the bonus of not having to deal with a separate pair of headphones). The Rift comes standard with a rigid strap and an integrated helmet.P>
If you really want to escape the real world and get lost in your racing sim, the option
Rift earphones
have very good passive sound insulation. To get the same noise isolation on the Vive you can use your own pair of noise canceling or noise isolating headphones as long as they have a 3.5mm audio jack.
A solid foundation (literally)p>
JCL SimRacing entry-level rig with OMPp seat>
The strength of immersion in sim racing is determined not only by the quality of your peripherals, but the soundness and calibration of their configuration. For example, there's little point in using a high-end wheel and pedals if you strap them to a low desk and your chair is prone to shifting around.
Ideally, you should be seated in an appropriate driving position for the virtual car you've selected, with your virtual limbs aligned perfectly with your real body, down to the position of your hands on the steering wheel and your feet on the pedals. It is possible to find an approximation with a table and chair of appropriate heights, but a decent riding position is most effectively achieved through your "sim rig", which consists of a racing seat attached to a solid frame (usually metal) with appropriate mounting points for wheels, pedals and other hardware.
There are several advantages to using a sim rig. Not only does it provide a comfortable riding position, but everything is race-ready at the click of a button. If you're constantly setting up a temporary position for a wheel unit and the pedal at a table, it'll feel a bit different each time, which is bad for ride consistency, and especially irritating with a VR setup where your headset limits view of your surroundings. Not to mention, if the whole setup is easy to use, you'll use it more often!
Having a familiar platform that you can navigate largely by touch, while wearing a headset is very helpful. Bolting the units to a chassis means you can drive with confidence, braking hard when needed without worrying that the pedals might slip under your feet. Additionally, mounting a hard drive force feedback wheel to a rigid frame improves feedback output, as less information is lost through unwanted flex; You can dramatically improve the feeling of even low-end sim hardware if it's securely attached to a dedicated rig. And perhaps most importantly for VR, you'll avoid any gradual drift in your vantage points or the feel that everything is bolted together.
Rookie: $175-$250 Budgetp>
Recommendation Kit.:p>
Thrustmaster T150 (~$175)p>
oop>
Thrustmaster T150 Pro Bundle (~$250)p>
Thrustmaster T150p> < p> To get started, you will need a wheel and pedal combination. If a rig sim is a step too far for a beginner, then at least make sure you have a sturdy desk/table for the wheel clamp, and prop the pedals up against a solid surface so you can't over them accidentally pushing away in the heat of the race. It's not a good idea to use a swivel chair on wheels, but at least they usually have quick height adjustment which can work well to improve your driving position.
p>
T150 < / p>
is currently the go-to entry-level wheel and pedal set for sim racing. A cheaper>
T80p>
is available, but it uses a simple centering spring and has limited rotation.P>
Thrustmaster T3PAp>
the T150 is the point in the range where Thrustmaster gets serious, offering a full-spin wheel and proper force feedback.p>
Pedal upgradep>
the standard T150 package is usually available for around $170, but the pedal unit is weak, using all-plastic construction with very low hand and throttle or brake resistance. The option p>
T3PA cranksetp>
is a major update, being higher quality and stronger, with a tapered rubber bolt-on bushing behind the brake pedal provides more progressive resistance. Lep>
T150 Pro bundlep>
includes T3PA pedals, and you should be able to find it for $250.P>
If you choose the stock T150 to start with, you can easily upgrade the base pedal assembly by adding a small amount of foam or rubber behind the brake pedal to increase resistance.
chinerp>
Alternatively, those on a tight budget may want to consider the used market, where higher-spec devices are often found at very attractive prices. Using the computer as your VR's racing platform means that a wide range of discontinued hardware is still supported in racing sims. Proceed with caution though, as input devices of this type tend to suffer a very rough life! Here's a list of popular, well-supported consumer wheels for performance (from weakest to strongest), that you might want to snag if you're a bargain hunter.
Logitech DFGTP>
Logitech G25p>
Thrustmaster T150 / TMXp>
Logitech G27p>
Logitech G29 / G920p>
Fanatec GT3 V2p>
Thrustmaster T300 / TXp>
Thrustmaster T500RSp>
Fanatec CSW V1p>
Fanatec CSL Elitep>
Thrustmaster TS-PCp> < p> Fanatec CSW V2p>
Fanatec CSW V2.5p>
It should be noted that a used wheel with a broken or worn crankset may still be worth a look at the right price, as you can spend most of your budget on new, separate pedals. On PC, even lower end pedal units can be used in racing sims as a standalone USB device, if you have the right adapter. For example, lep>
Thrustmaster TRJ12 USB Adapterp>
will allow you to use a T3PA or T3PA-PRO set with a wheelp>
Passionate of:. $500 - $1,000 budgetp>
Kit Recommendation:p>
wheelsp>
Thrustmaster T300 (~$400)p>
Thrustmaster TS-PC (~$500)p >
Fanatec CSL Elite Formula (~$500)p>
Cranksetp>
Thrustmaster T3PA (~$150)p>
Fanatec CSL Elite LC (~$200)p>
Rigsp>
GT Omega Prop>
(~$430)p>
DIY wood or '80/20' chassisp>
Thrustmaster T300RSp>
at this level, a dedicated platform becomes very important, if not essential. Sure, it's easy to blow a $1000 budget on a higher quality wheel and pedal assembly than the recommendations in this section, but the priority should be to own a solid chassis first, preferably one that may accept updated devices at a later date. Lep>
Thrustmaster T300p>
combined withp>
T3PA pedalsp>
is a great choice for a $500 budget, as it will perform acceptably on a tabletop and benefit from upgrading to a platform at a later date, and it supports the full range of T-Series add-onsp>
note:. T300 is available in several packages at fluctuating prices, ranging from the "Base Servo" on its own to the "Alcantara Edition", which bundles the luxurious 599XX Alcantara rim with the T3PA pedals. The "GT Edition" bundle uses the standard T300RS rim combined with T3PA pedals (with slightly different pedal faces), and is generally the cheapest route to the T300/T3PA combo. It may also be worth considering the TX - the PC-compatible, Xbox One variant of the T300 (with 900 degrees of rotation instead of 1080) -. As his beams are sometimes cheaper
If you need to save space, there are several foldable stand products that offer an improvement over using a table, such as
Wheelstand Prop>
p>
Playseat Challenge> < p>, oops>
GT Omega Wheel Support>
-the latter having the advantage of being essentially the front part of a complete chassis, with thep>
rear half available for purchase separately
if you want to expand your platform at a later time. If you don't want a space-saving solution, buying or building a complete rig is the logical way to go.
Fanatec CSL Elite Formulap>
Thrustmaster TS-PC Racer>
Fanatec CSL Elite LCp Pedals>
With a higher budget, lep>
Thrustmaster Racer TS-PCp>
oop>
Fanatec CSL Elite Formulap>
combined withp>
CSL Elite LCp pedals>
is the recommended next step above the T300/T3PA combo (see our p>
'Best steering wheel & amp; pedals for newcomers to VR Sim Racingp>
' article for a detailed comparison of the TS-PC and CSL Elite). These devices offer strong feedback, and as FANATEC pedals feature a load cell brake, need hard mounting on a dedicated platform to truly appreciate the benefits of this type of sensor.
Note: Higher quality pedals often use load cells rather than measuring rotary potentiometer inputs. This is particularly important on the brake axis, where a load cell allows the driver to find the optimal brake pressure more intuitively. The CSL Elite LC pedals are the cheapest route to charging cellular braking fun.P>
GT Omega Pro Basicp>
DIYp>
The most cost effective way to own a sturdy platform is to build one from wood, if you have the means to do so. A variety of blueprints are available for purchase on the Rigs Sim Open site, including
one made entirely from 2×4 pieces
. Otherwise, p>
Ricmotech offers a more detailed, proven DIY plan
which includes life-size models and an instruction booklet. Extruded grooved aluminum beams (commonly referred to as '80/20') is a popular material for constructing a frame, but it tends to be much more expensive than wood.P>
For those looking outside the -Shelf solutions,p>
RaceRoom>
etp>
Playseatp>
do some of the less expensive rigs, but the p>
GT Omega Prop>
is much stronger and continues to be some of the best value in terms of stability for the money
Pro. $1,500 - $3,000 budgetp >
kit recommendations:p>
wheelp>
Fanatec ClubSport Wheelbase V2.5 (~$500)p>
+p>
Fanatec ClubSport Formula Black Rim (~$200)p>
Pedalsp>
ProtoSimTech PT-1p>
(~$500)p>
Heusinkveld Prop>
(~$850)p>
Rigsp>
DIY '80/20' Chassis
I'm considering getting an Oculus Quest Is a VR headset worth it
— David (Outside Goer) Sun Aug 29 15:23:59 +0000 2021
RSeat RS1p>
(~$950)
Fanatec CSW V2.5p>
Fanatec Black Formula
Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V3p>
While higher performance wheels are achievable with this kind of budget, in order to have a balanced combination of hardware, lep>
CSW V2.5p>
seems like the right choice. The flagship Fanatec wheel is a superb device, by far the best consumer model on the market before you venture into the direct drive segment niche.
ProtoSimTech PT-1p>
There's also a temptation to stick with a lower end pedal set with this budget, and the Elite Fanatec CSL LC set has the quality to complement the V2.5 wheelbase. The next stop is the flagship of Fanatecp>
ClubSport V3 pedalsp>
, which have a stronger build, but are perhaps too close in price (especially the inverted model) to ProtoSimTech PT-1p>
, which are undoubtedly another leap forward (unfortunately they are not currently available, but worth keeping an eye out for).
Heusinkveld Sim Pro pedals
At any level, the choice of pedals can make more of a difference (in terms of lap times and consistency) than the wheel, so one could justify spending a significant percentage of the budget on pedals, etp>
Pro Heusinkveldp pedals>
are a very popular choice.
RSEAT RS1p>
As far as rigs go, the GT Omega rig Pro from the 'hobbyist' section can still be made to work with these high-end pedals, but its fixed pedal plate design isn't ideal. A good step from GT Omega is lep>
RSeat RS1p>
, which is more adjustable, stronger, and has a modular design that can incorporate several upgrades, including a p>
pedal plate prop>
which reduces flex.p>
You can also, using an aluminum extrusion is probably the most and least expensive solution if you go the DIY route, although ready-to-assemble 80/20 kits can be just as expensive as pre-made frames, as illustrated by the super-solidep>
Heusinkveld Sim Rig GTp>
. basic kits from suppliers such as p>
4PlayRacingp>
p>
Sim-Labp>
oop>
JCL SimRacing .p>
start at around $500p>
Extreme: $5000 + Budgetp>
Suggestions Kit:p>
wheel basesp>
AccuForce V2p>
OSWp>
SimSteering2p>
Cranksetp>
Heusinkveldp>
HPPp>
RealGearp>
Foreusep>
FastTrackSimsp>
SimXperiencep>
Vesarop>
AccuForce Motor V2p>
Mige motor for OSWp>
Leo Bodnar SimSteeringp>
Call these suggestions rather than recommendations, because these products are far beyond the typical consumer level, with performance and durability that can hold up to the demands of a commercial or professional environment.
Unlike consumer force feedback wheels that use gears or belts to complete a smaller motor, direct drive solutions connect the flywheel directly to the shaft of an industrial servo motor. Gears and belts still dull the ratings to some degree; a direct-drive wheel offering superior response, torque, and dynamic range. If you want the ultimate haptic feedback in VR racing, this is it. The torque available from these systems is enough to break wrists - you might want to let go of the wheel before you hit that virtual barrier!
SEE ALSOp>
It's okay to be jealous of this $25,000 Rig VR Racing, we're too
A few years ago, the technology was limited to the commercial sector, but thanks to the resourcefulness of the sim community, the OpenSimwheel project was born. For those looking to build their own OSW, p>
Martin Ascherp tutorial>
is a good place to start, etp>
BoxThisLap has helpful documentationp>
. But it is now much easier to purchase kits from sites such as p>
Sim-plicityp>
oop>
SimRacingBayp>
.P >
Kollmorgen engine used for the SimSteering2p system>
SimSteering2 system from Leo Bodnar Electronicsp>
is widely regarded as the best direct drive system for racing simulators, but it comes at an eye watering cost. Developed for the commercial market, the SimSteering2 is best described as an entry-level industrial controller, comparable to systems from Moog and Cruden. You're paying a lot more for very OSW-like performance, although you'll avoid the notorious EMI issues that continue to plague many OSW builds if you go this route.
New direct-drive solutions are said to be in the pipeline from Thrustmaster and Fanatec, but for now the most consumer-focused direct-drive option is the AccuForce from SimXperience.p>
version 2 launches soon
, the ready-to-reader model available for $1299.p>
HPP PRX-SEp>
Much like the wheels, pedals at the top end of the market are as realistic as they come, and are very adjustable, so you can tune a set to suit your preferences. Lep>
Heusinkveld ultimatep>
p>
HPP PRXp>
etp>
RealGear GTpro3p>
are examples of industrial strength devices that use three different hydraulic models to replicate the feel of real pedals.p>
Again, the rigs from the previous section will work, but it's worth mentioning a few additional high end options here, like lep>
FastTrackSims TC-R1p>
, the SimXperience motion simulator specialists -p>
which offer complete rigs with an innovative yaw actuator to simulate the feeling of losing rear traction
-and companies such as motion simulators offer turnkey VRp>
CXC simulationsp>
etp>
Vesaro < /p>
.
FastTrackSims TC-R1 staticp>
Motion rigs are extremely entertaining, but can be somewhat problematic for VR, especially with the Vive, where base stations are mounted at a distance from the rig. With long travel motion actuators, your head can change position so much that it doesn't translate to realistic movement in the virtual cockpit. Using a rift, the tracking camera can be attached to the motion rig itself, so the position tracking is relative to the rig, rather than the ground (but this can cause further tracking problems due to excessive vibration). As such, shorter travel actuators tend to be more appropriate for VR.P>
You can enhance a static rig using audio transducers rather than motion actuators, with a popular brand being
Buttkickerp>
. This can stream audio from the SIM card, functioning as a very low frequency subwoofer, or ideally, connecting directly to the physical output of the SIM card.
as provided by SimVibep software>
. This technology makes the transducer act more like a force feedback device, and it all works with a single unit, especially effective if you can mount a transducer to all four corners of the chassis.
“Formula” Rigsp>
Playseat Grand Prix>
While rigs like the TC-R1 offer a riding position that's a good middle ground between an upright 'GT' position and the low 'formula' position, some want the full formula VR experience, where the point H is lower than the feet. This is achievable with a custom 80/20 build, or with off-the-shelf platforms like lep>
Playseat Grand Prix>
etp>
Next Level Racing to deliver an innovative F1GT platform
which can be adjusted between the two driving positions. Formula-style complex cockpits are also available, from companies such as
Evotek Engineering>
etp>
FormulaVRp>
, which has recently p>
revealed their product HelmetVRp >
.p>
Optional accessories>
H-pattern / Sequential Shifterp>
Thrustmaster TH8Ap>
Fanatec ClubSport Shifter SQ V1.5p>
Pro-Sim H-Motif Shifterp>
If you're a car enthusiast, you know there's something special about rowing the gears manually (p>
as this gentleman certainly does
), and which is the same in a VR simulator. Unless you have limited space with a Formula-style cockpit, or you plan to drive cars with paddle shifters, a separate shifter should be the most important input device after your steering wheel and pedals, which improves greatly the sense of connection to H- pattern manual cars.p>
p>
Driving force Shifterp>
Logitech is the most basic option, designed to connect directly to their G29/G920 wheels.
This adapter from Leo Bodnarp>
can make a USB device self-contained. It does the job, but it feels like a toy without a modification and only appropriately suited for entry-level wheels.
Pro-Sim PSL Sequential Shifterp>
The 3D-printed < / p>
SHH Shifterp>
(~$100) is significantly better, followed by all metalp>
Thrustmaster TH8Ap>
(~$180). Fanatec dep>
CS shifter V1.5p>
(~$200) currently sits at the top of the list, until your budget can accommodate the ultra high-end
Pro-Sim H Pattern Shifterp>
(~$1,600).p>
The SHH, Thrustmaster and FANATEC shifters all offer sequential mode, but those serious about sequential shift cars can opt for a dedicated lever, from manufacturers such as
DSDp>
p>
Heusinkveldp>
p>
Manu-Factoryp>
oop>
Pro-Simp>
. A sequential shifter can double as a handbrake too (essential input if you're a rally fan), although these are also available
separate devicesp>
.p> < p> additional direction Rimsp>
There are thousands of different steering wheel shapes and sizes, but they can be broken down into a few categories. VR has an advantage over the monitor-based racing sim in this area, because you see the correct virtual steering wheel for each car, but it's still helpful to hold a real wheel that approximates the virtual model as closely as possible. A small formula-style ledge has a very different feel to a large rally-style variant for example; it's quite common for sim racers to have at least two types of wheels, now that both Thrustmaster and FANATEC wheelbases have quick release systems.
Fanatec ClubSport Hub Universalp>
If you invest in a Thrustmaster wheel base (T300 / TX or better), the T series of rims are compatible, such as lep>
599XX Alcantarap>
oop>
Ferrari F1p>
.p>
FANATEC offers a wide range of dep>
rim Optionsp>
, including a p>
Universal Hubp>
, which allows most real racing wheels (such as MOMO or Sparco) to be attached. Pro-grade quick releases are available for direct drive wheels, although FANATEC's rims are so capable that many direct drive users opt for one.
adapter to use their quick release systemp>
. < / p>
button boxesp>
with a restricted view of the real world, using a wheel rim with a few well-placed buttons is important enough for VR, that you want quick access to certain functions while racing, such as adjusting brake balance, activation of the pit limiter or in the various menus toggle HUD. You definitely want to avoid fumbling for a keyboard or mouse whenever possible. By the way, when you need access to keys or pointer, keyboard and mouse combo unit like lep>
Logitech K400 Plusp>
is very useful for a sim platform.P>
DSD P1p>
a dedicated button box can be a very handy accessory. In VR, you operate every input by touch, and there are only so many buttons you'd want on the wheel before it gets too cluttered. It's a good idea to choose a layout with a variety of switches that are easily differentiated by feel. These devices are available from manufacturers such as
Derek Speare Designs
p>
Ricmotechp>
p>
Sim Hardware Racingp>
etp>
Real Simracing Xperiencep>
.p>div>